The Construct of Seasonal Food

Culinary journalism has become obsessed with seasonal food. It seems as though you cannot read a food article without coming across some discussion on eating ‘seasonally’. Considering that those in developed countries have been happy to eat fresh foods regardless of the season, where did this discussion come from and what are its implications for both agricultural economies and the dinner table?

With the advent of industrial agricultural after the Second World War, a system was developed whereby strawberries could be grown in Chile in December and shipped to New York for a ‘summertime snack’ in the winter. This system depended on cheap energy and accessible technology. It also required a culinary discourse that focused on instant gratification – a legacy of post-industrial capitalism we are finding out got us into trouble – over quality ingredients and patience. For the many who have tasted a tomato shipped 5000 kilometres, you know how bland it was and how you focused your passion on the dish rather than the ingredients. Of course a dish is made up of ingredients, not the other way around. Like what is taking place in finance at the moment, there has been a ‘back to basics’ movement in cookery for much of the past decade. It is this understanding, in combination with a growing recognition of the importance of environmental and social sustainability, that played a large part in the focus on seasonal food. Seasonal food itself, however, is very much a social construct that varies from culture to culture.

Cultures are heavily shaped by the meteorological conditions bestowed upon them. Some societies define seasons in disparities of temperature, while others define them by disparities of precipitation. In a few localities – Singapore comes to mind and perhaps even San Francisco – there is little annual variation in the weather, allowing for some things to always grow and other things to never grow. Yet both are global cities that have been influenced by many cultures and still maintain seasonal dishes. It seems the overarching theme is one of variety: whether two or four seasons, most people enjoy a cornucopia of flavours. Those inhabiting the temperate North are blessed (or not) with four distinct seasons, and it is from this culture that the discourse of local and seasonal has developed. No doubt, as the wealthiest part of the world, its residents have been spoilt for choice for many years. What then of agricultural producers in less developed countries?

It would seem that fewer fluctuations in weather conditions allows for a factory-like production of core staples. In fact, most of these staples are still grown by the developed world. Food imported from less developed countries is typically from a temperate region of the South, Chile and South Africa being classic examples. In these cases, the seasons are the mirror opposite to the North, and the countries themselves are not on the bottom rung of the income ladder among developing countries. Is there a way to reconcile this skewed means of food production and distribution that seems to leave out Equatorial lands while still encouraging sustainable and local food production?

Staples – grain, rice, and maize - rarely require refrigeration, hence the energy required to ship them is far less than that required for fruits and vegetables. This is not to say that local production of staples shouldn’t be welcome, but that this is an area where development initiatives can be focused. For those in colder climes, some fruits will need to be shipped longer distances, but this should not preclude these localities from maximising production in warmer months.

The key issue in this discourse, however, should not be forgotten – creating an environmental friendly and sustainable method of agriculture and culinary practices that builds community. Building communities need not exclude external communities. Nor should one social construct of seasonal food come to dominate. What then, is a cook to do? Seasonal food – whatever the season or locality – should be the foundation of every recipe; it is tastier and typically more sustainable. Nonetheless, where imported foods are necessary, they should be from the shortest distance possible, and when from less developed countries, they should be Fair-Trade certified. We should also explore our ability to grow a wider variety of foods locally – and sustainably of course.

Acknowledging the social construct of food is to deal with a bevy of social issues surrounding modern food production. There are no easy answers to such complex issues, though some suggestions and guidelines have been given above. What this should do, however, is motivate the contemporary cook to really explore all the possibilities of the ingredients in season. Grounding them with stocks, marinades, seasons, etc, is a good way to add regional accents while maintaining culinary integrity. Because seasons know no limits…