Haricot: Bean of Wonder

While the produce in my refrigerator may change with the seasons, there is one item that remains a staple in my cupboard – delicious white haricot beans. This legume, also known as the navy bean, is friend of both carnivores and vegetarians the world over. High in protein and fibre with a texture that is both giving and firm, it is a nutritious and versatile bean, ready to subsume the flavours of the dish in question. Let us explore some of the possibilities this bean of wonder offers.

To get the best bite out of your haricot beans – texture as opposed to flavour is what sets this pulse apart – it is always best to buy dried haricots and soak them overnight. The tinned varieties packed in water may be acceptable for chickpeas, but haricots unfortunately become flaccid and mealy. There are some wonderful organic haricots produced in France for the ecologically minded British shopper and the US also produces plenty of domestic navy beans for those North American readers.

I always like to the boil the beans first, even when cooking a casserole with haricots. I find it best to cook the haricots for 30 minutes to an hour in the water they have been soaking in, as this brings imparts a subtly earthy richness. It will also result in a delicious creamy stock once the beans are fully cooked in the liquid. If you are decanting the beans into a casserole dish for further cooking, do not discard the cooking liquid! Reserve that stock for future use - it is delicious as a base for vegetable soups. Adding a bay leaf and a head of garlic (yes the whole head!) and/or a leek to the simmering haricots will add an extra savoury quality as the beans slowly break down and release some of their starches into the stock. If a casserole is on the menu then we have two primary options: the white base, which I prefer in the spring and summer, and red base for those cold damp autumn and winter days.

A white haricot casserole base might include some variety of pork, the belly is especially delicious here, or perhaps a saddle of rabbit. Salt cod or smoked fish could be equally suitable for this base. When cooking a white bean casserole, I prefer to leave out the bacon or lardons and pile in the garlic and onions. Leeks can also be rather grounding to a white haricot dish, though this will add weight to the palate and may be inappropriate for a warm summer day. Let your taste buds guide you in making such a decision. White wine, however, is essential. Decant a quarter bottle or so into the stockpot and let that simmer until the flavours are really having a party. For the vegetarians amongst us, some fresh greens – spinach or spring greens are especially nice – can be added for colour and flavour. Top with fresh minced wild garlic and spring onions for a refreshing summer legume salad. With meat, leave out the extras – greens and wild onions – and serve simply with a salad on the side. A fresh Chablis or other clean and unoaked chardonnay is perfect.

Winter demands a heartier dish, and instead of garlic and onions with white wine, we will focus on peeled plum tomatoes, red wine, rosemary, and bacon. Garlic, however is still essential, just in smaller quantities. Start with smoked bacon or lardons with some chopped garlic to taste and sauté until the garlic begins to give. Vegetarians might add smoked tofu, but keep it simple and avoid the alien tasting meat substitutes. Then add your (drained) haricot beans, allowing just a bit of the stock into the pot – the liquids in the tomatoes will make up for this. Reserve the rest of the bean stock for a soup. Follow up with the tinned plum tomatoes and much red wine – red Burgundy is especially delicious. Finally add your already browned meat, which might be lamb, rabbit, smoked pork, venison, or other types of game. Drop a bay leaf, some thyme and rosemary, and simmer for a good hour and a half to two hours. The idea is slow braising with the occasional stir to ensure even distribution of the heat and ingredients. You will notice how the exterior texture of the haricots contrasts ever so slightly with the melt in your mouth meat that has been stewing. Serve with much bread and red wine as you allow the deep flavours and unctuous mouth-feel to fill your belly.

Soaked and cooked haricots can also be lovely in a summer salad and marry particularly well with parsley and mind, with some cucumber, olive oil and lemon juice. Experiment with other season vegetables to taste and always serve cold.

Haricot beans, along with puy lentils, are among nature’s most lovely pulses. They are versatile and filling, yet never too heavy. The beans require few ingredients to make an interesting and delicious dish, so it is perfect for those days when the cupboard or refrigerator is looking a bit sparse. Just remember the magic three – garlic, bay leaf, and wine. Haricot, here we go!