Meat Free Thursdays, Part Deux

When promising a regular post on a particular theme, you suddenly realise the weight of such an obligation. Nevertheless, helping us all to reduce our environmental impact while enjoying delicious food is a worthy cause. Today’s meat free recipe features lentils in a British/French manner.

Lentils are perhaps the most delicious pulse this lovely earth brings forth. I am particularly fond of the green Puy lentils from the Southwest of France. If you are reading this in the UK, they are relatively sustainable (as far as lentils go) and are not trucked in from halfway across the globe. In fact, because the Southwest is near the coast and transport by shipping container is more efficient than by lorry Puy lentils by delivered by sea may in fact be better than any such lentil grown in the UK and sent around by lorry. Once again this depends on where you are in the UK (and the same for North America or anywhere else in the world), but I digress.

Puy lentils have an earthy richness combined with a sharp peppery bite that make them an ideal match with something unctuous, creamy, or equally sharp. I find watercress an indispensable companion to lentils cooked in the manner below. In the winter, watercress can be substituted with kale or winter-greens. The base is relatively simple – a minced mirepoix of sorts sautéed in olive oil with a splash of wine and the lentils. I must give deference to both Fergus Henderson and Joël Robuchon for inspiration of this base. Like a stock, or even pizza, this is a base that welcomes a variety of ‘toppings’ so to speak. The key is to match flavours that melt with the bite of the lentils or perhaps outmatch it, while keeping an earth richness in harmony. I love goats curd, soft cows curd (almost a mix of crème fraiche/sour cream with cottage cheese), Jerusalem artichokes, globe artichokes, or even beetroot with this base. Then top with greens accordingly. I will commit a cardinal sin and admit that I love Puy lentils with lambs kidneys and breast of duck. In fact all offal suits this base well. This being a vegetarian column, however, I will give a vegan base and leave any embellishment to you:

Puy Lentil Base for 1:

1 can/carton of Puy lentils (green lentils suffice as a substitute)
1 small onion or 2-3 shallots, minced
1 stick of celery, finely chopped
1 medium carrot, finely chopped
1 glass dry white wine
Chopped parsley (I prefer curly leaf for this recipe, but either will do) to taste
Salt and pepper

Toppings (Optional)

Greens of some sort to just cover, but not smother: Watercress, kale, collards, winter greens, spring greens, mustard greens, chard, nettles, even spinach

Method:

1. Heat a bit of olive oil in a plan and add the minced vegetables, cook until soft.

2. Add the lentils with their liquid, stir for 1 minute.

3. Add the wine, continuing to stir, then let this elixir simmer until much of the liquid has cooked off

4. Add the salt and pepper (salt too early toughens the lentils into cardboard).

5. Top with an unctuous combination (the cheeses mentioned above work wonderfully), something earthy (Jerusalem artichokes cooked ‘al dente’, roasted beetroot or parsnips perhaps), or something with bite (kohlrabi).

6. Add the greens and enjoy.